Monday, June 13, 2011

Day 17: Mon 13 Jun - Ilok, Croatia to Beska, Serbia

 Ride: 80km

I am not sad about leaving Croatia. When the Croatian Border Guard said why you are going to this part of my country and not to the Adriatic Sea area, it might have been a hint. He said, “I do not like this part of Croatia at all.” However it has been interesting, the war damage the rundown villages and the vast areas of agriculture. And everyone goes to the Adriatic; the last thing I want is crowds of tourists. 

The place we stayed last night was a lovely privately run motel, very old but beautifully kept. We had dinner in their courtyard under a clear cool sky. A$10 for goulash, salad, a beer and a big bowl of pasta.  Kev and I couldn't get through the pasta it was so big, even with our cycling appetites.  

The border crossing on both sides again was painless. 

It's hills again today, but we are quickly getting so fit they don't rate, even 10%ers. Well I wrote that at lunch; one hill too soon, 6 km of pain was to follow. I'm very glad I didn't bring Wendy or Graham (pommy cycling mate) on this one I'd really be in hot water. The 6 km hill was followed soon after by more and more right to our hotel. It's the Sidro 5 km out of Beska right on the Danube. And because we need a twin room we happened to get the best room in the place with a balcony directly over the Danube

Stopped at Petrovaradin Museum & Fort for lunch. The site of a  battle in 1716 which involved our old mate Prince Eugene from Hungary. We stayed in his palace, at Rackeve in Hungary, it's a small world.    On this occasion he gave the Turks a hiding. War plagues this location because in 1999 NATO bombed two bridges that cross the Danube to Novi Sad to stop the Yugoslavs killing Albanians in Kosovo. Are these places ever going to see everlasting peace? 

We have noticed a change in the drivers' attitude towards cyclists. The Serbs are much less tolerant and don't give you anywhere near enough room when passing. Is that an indication of their aggression that has manifested itself in so many attacks on neighbours and even their own ethnic minorities. Or am I reading too much into this situation? There are definitely less bicycles around the further East we go. 

Restaurant in our hotel, overlooking the Danube and a new bridge under construction

View from our room balcony







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